Coelognathus radiatus - Radiated rat snake
Published by Steve on 2009/2/23 (388 reads)
Coelognathus radiatus, the Radiated rat snake is a beautiful medium sized snake named because of thre lines that radiate from the eye of the snake to the back of the head. An extremely fast animal with a deserved reputation for being nervous and highly strung.
Longevity: 20 years +
Adult size: 150 cm (5 feet) +
Housing: adults do best in a well ventilated vivarium measuring around 90-120cm (36-48 inches) in length, 45cm (18 inches) deep and 45cm (18 inches) high. These animals are fairly diurnal, enjoy climbing and will use all the room you can afford them. Hatchlings and younger snakes may be kept in a smaller vivarium. Plastic housing is probably better for this species than wood due to their humidity requirements.
Substrate: Radiated rat snakes require a fairly humid environment and the substrate they are kept on should reflect this. They do well on coconut husk and sphagnum moss or a mixture of the two. Wood based substrates are likely to rot in humid conditions. Always check when buying substrate that it is suitable for use with snakes. When using any substrate, care should be taken to ensure there is no risk of substrate being ingested as this can lead to gut impaction. Remove all droppings and clean the vivarium on a regular basis to prevent disease.
Vivarium furnishings: Hides & shelters are essential. They prevent stress and allow your pet a safe haven from the outside world. There should be at least 2, one at the warm and one at the cool end of the vivarium. These snakes are average climbers and as long as they are fixed securely, sterilised logs, rocks and fake plants increase the surface area and make interesting climbing and resting places.
Heating: A temperature gradient from the warm end at 30°C (86°F) to cool areas at 25°C (78°F) is suitable. Night time temperatures can be around 25°C (78°F). The heat source can be a ceramic heater or heat mat. Wire mesh guards should be fitted over any ceramic heat sources used in order to prevent thermal burns. A thermostat is essential, to control the heat source within the vivarium and prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.
Lighting: No additional lighting is required for this snake if the snake is housed in a room with natural lighting. Do not place the vivarium in direct sun light.
Water: Clean water must always be provided for the snake to drink from and bathe in. A fairly humid environment is required and it is advisable to spray the vivarium twice a day. This is espceially important when shedding.
Diet and Feeding: Adults will take mice, chicks and rats once a week. Younger snakes will eat appropriately sized baby mice or rats. A food item should be no bigger than 1.5 times the width of the widest part of the snake’s body and after a meal a small bulge should be noticeable in the stomach of the snake.
Temperament: Usually nervous as hatchlings , especially when being removed from the vivarium and can often be aggressive. When aggression is shown, the snake will inflate the neck vertically and gape the mouth in an impressive and intimidating display.
Suitability as pet: These snakes can take a lot of work and patience. Although they will become used to handling they can always surprise you especially if there is movement around them. They have an extremely inquisitive nature and will readily investigate anything that catches their attention. Not an ideal species for a novice keeper.
Things to consider:
Who will look after your new pet if you are away?
Can you get food easily from your local pet shop?
Can you deal with feeding whole frozen and defrosted rodents to your pet?
Are you prepared to take on an animal that could be with you in ten years time?
Is the rest of the family happy to live with a snake?
Salmonella: Like all living things reptiles can carry the naturally occurring bacteria Salmonella, which can be acquired by ingestion (via the mouth). Good hygiene is therefore very important when keeping any animal. Remember, you are just as likely to acquire Salmonella from raw chicken, meat, a stale cream cake or a dog so don't automatically assume that your reptile is the only suspect! Always wash your hands after handling ALL animals.
There are some excellent books on keeping Rat snakes and you should purchase one or more of these to read before you buy your snake. You should also consider joining your local reptile society who will be happy to offer help and advice.
For further information check out the following web sites:
FBH: www.f-b-h.co.uk
Proteus Reptile Trust: www.proteus.uk.net
British Reptile Club: www.britishreptileclub.org
Longevity: 20 years +
Adult size: 150 cm (5 feet) +
Housing: adults do best in a well ventilated vivarium measuring around 90-120cm (36-48 inches) in length, 45cm (18 inches) deep and 45cm (18 inches) high. These animals are fairly diurnal, enjoy climbing and will use all the room you can afford them. Hatchlings and younger snakes may be kept in a smaller vivarium. Plastic housing is probably better for this species than wood due to their humidity requirements.
Substrate: Radiated rat snakes require a fairly humid environment and the substrate they are kept on should reflect this. They do well on coconut husk and sphagnum moss or a mixture of the two. Wood based substrates are likely to rot in humid conditions. Always check when buying substrate that it is suitable for use with snakes. When using any substrate, care should be taken to ensure there is no risk of substrate being ingested as this can lead to gut impaction. Remove all droppings and clean the vivarium on a regular basis to prevent disease.
Vivarium furnishings: Hides & shelters are essential. They prevent stress and allow your pet a safe haven from the outside world. There should be at least 2, one at the warm and one at the cool end of the vivarium. These snakes are average climbers and as long as they are fixed securely, sterilised logs, rocks and fake plants increase the surface area and make interesting climbing and resting places.
Heating: A temperature gradient from the warm end at 30°C (86°F) to cool areas at 25°C (78°F) is suitable. Night time temperatures can be around 25°C (78°F). The heat source can be a ceramic heater or heat mat. Wire mesh guards should be fitted over any ceramic heat sources used in order to prevent thermal burns. A thermostat is essential, to control the heat source within the vivarium and prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.
Lighting: No additional lighting is required for this snake if the snake is housed in a room with natural lighting. Do not place the vivarium in direct sun light.
Water: Clean water must always be provided for the snake to drink from and bathe in. A fairly humid environment is required and it is advisable to spray the vivarium twice a day. This is espceially important when shedding.
Diet and Feeding: Adults will take mice, chicks and rats once a week. Younger snakes will eat appropriately sized baby mice or rats. A food item should be no bigger than 1.5 times the width of the widest part of the snake’s body and after a meal a small bulge should be noticeable in the stomach of the snake.
Temperament: Usually nervous as hatchlings , especially when being removed from the vivarium and can often be aggressive. When aggression is shown, the snake will inflate the neck vertically and gape the mouth in an impressive and intimidating display.
Suitability as pet: These snakes can take a lot of work and patience. Although they will become used to handling they can always surprise you especially if there is movement around them. They have an extremely inquisitive nature and will readily investigate anything that catches their attention. Not an ideal species for a novice keeper.
Things to consider:
Who will look after your new pet if you are away?
Can you get food easily from your local pet shop?
Can you deal with feeding whole frozen and defrosted rodents to your pet?
Are you prepared to take on an animal that could be with you in ten years time?
Is the rest of the family happy to live with a snake?
Salmonella: Like all living things reptiles can carry the naturally occurring bacteria Salmonella, which can be acquired by ingestion (via the mouth). Good hygiene is therefore very important when keeping any animal. Remember, you are just as likely to acquire Salmonella from raw chicken, meat, a stale cream cake or a dog so don't automatically assume that your reptile is the only suspect! Always wash your hands after handling ALL animals.
There are some excellent books on keeping Rat snakes and you should purchase one or more of these to read before you buy your snake. You should also consider joining your local reptile society who will be happy to offer help and advice.
For further information check out the following web sites:
FBH: www.f-b-h.co.uk
Proteus Reptile Trust: www.proteus.uk.net
British Reptile Club: www.britishreptileclub.org
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