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Care Sheets > Snakes > Boas > Boinae > Epicrates > Epicrates cenchria cenchria - Brazilian Rainbow Boa
Epicrates cenchria cenchria - Brazilian Rainbow Boa
Published by Steve on 2007/10/7 (761 reads)
Origin: South America
Longevity: to 20 years
Adult Size: to 8ft

Housing: Brazilian rainbow boas require high humidity so vivaria material should be chosen with this in mind, fibre glass would be most suitable, but a wooden vivarium with glass doors would be adequate providing joints are sealed with aquarium sealant. Youngsters can be housed in plastic vivariums with adequate ventilation. Adults require a minimum sized vivarium of 4ft x 2ft x 2ft, providing extra height is suggested as they are semi arboreal.

Vivarium furnishings: They love to climb, so a tall cage with branches for climbing is recommended. As with most snakes, hides are also necessary.

Substrate: Choose a substrate that can help maintain high humidity such as orchid bark, coco fibre. An area of damp moss within a hide is also recommended and may help with sloughing. Substrates must be changed frequently as the warm humid enviroment can encourage growth of mould and bacteria.

Temperature and heating: Aim for an ambient temperature of 78 F – 80 F with a basking area of 85 F ( no higher than 90F). Night time ambient temperatures can drop to 74F. Consider heating equipment carefully, some forms of heating such as ceramics can be very drying, which will affect humidity levels. Heat mats are not suitable. Use your heating in conjunction with a day/night pulse proportional thermostat and a guard.

Humidity and water: Brazilian rainbow boas are sensitive to dehydration and maintenance of humidity is essential. Aim for humidity levels between 70 - 90%, monitor levels using a hygrometer. Humidity may be raised by misting 1-3 times daily and placing a water bowl in the warm area of the vivarium, provide a water bowl large enough for your boa to soak in and change the water daily and if defecated in.

Lighting: As nocturnal snakes there is no evidence that Uv lighting is beneficial at present, but please do update yourself in this area as new research is ongoing. A red night light would be most suitable for night viewing, bright lights are not advocated and may stress your pet.

Feeding: In captivity mice and small rats can be offered. The size of rodent given should be no larger than the girth of your snake at its widest point. Neonates require feeding every 5 – 8 days and adults every 10 – 14 days. Take care not to over feed as they are prone to becoming over weight in captivity.

Temperament They can be nippy, but often calm down with gentle handling.

Suitability as a pet: Not a snake for beginners, these attractive snakes can make good pets but not all individuals take well to being handled.

Things to consider:
Who will look after your new pet if you are away?
Can you get food easily from your local pet shop?
Can you deal with feeding whole frozen and defrosted rodents to your pet?
Are you prepared to take on an animal that could be with you in ten years time?
Is the rest of the family happy to live with a snake?

Salmonella: Like all living things reptiles can carry the naturally occurring bacteria Salmonella, which can be acquired by ingestion (via the mouth). Good hygiene is therefore very important when keeping any animal. Remember, you are just as likely to acquire Salmonella from raw chicken, meat, a stale cream cake or a dog so don't automatically assume that your reptile is the only suspect! Always wash your hands after handling ALL animals.

We gratefully acknowledge the assistance of Angi Nelson, Editor of Reptile Care Magazine in the preparation of this guide.




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