Morelia spilota cheyneii - Jungle Carpet Python
Published by Steve on 2007/10/7 (1378 reads)
Origin: Australia
Adult size: 5ft – 7ft
Longevity: 20 – 30 years
Housing: Enclosure size will obviously depend on the size of the animal, hatchlings are best maintained in small hatchling tubs or faunariums at first increasing the size of the enclosure as the animal grows. Eventually when the snake reaches adult size of around 5-7 feet, it will need an enclosure around 3ftx2ftx2ft as a minimum. Carpet Pythons love to climb so if you can provide a taller enclosure then by all means do so. When deciding on the type of enclosure then its worth considering several things, the main one usually being durability, along with cost and safety in mind. In this day and age there are many enclosures available made from wood, glass, and plastic and fibre glass. All types of enclosure have their pros and cons, but you would always advise going for the best quality housing you can afford and not simply buying something you will need to replace in a year or so.
Vivarium furnishings: Tank decorations are another thing of which there is a huge variety to choose from. Remember that the more décor you use the more you will have to clean and disinfect on a regular basis. However there are two things which must be inside the vivarium, these are a sufficient hide/hides and a water bowl. Snakes are generally insecure animals which need confined space in order to feel secure (and thrive) so hides must always be provided. A water bowl large enough for the snake to completely submerge itself and with fresh water should be available at all times. Branches should also be provided for carpet pythons as they are a semi- arboreal species and love to climb. They must be fixed in place and strong enough to take the snakes weight (usually around the same thickness as the snake at mid body.
Substrate for reptiles is probably one of the most debateable topics ever. There are many different types to choose from but the most suitable for carpet pythons are orchid bark or newspaper.
Temperature and heating: Like housing, heating can also be achieved in a number of ways from ceramics, incandescent spot lights, heat mats and heat plates, all have their pros and cons. The type of heating you may use may depend on the type of housing you have decided to use as some may be better suited than others. However Regardless of the type of heating all heat sources should be adequately guarded and run on the appropriate thermostat (this is not an optional extra!)
Within the enclosure a background temp of 78f is adequate but should never be allowed to fall below 75f. At the warm end a temp of around 85-88f should be provided in order to allow the snake to thermo regulate (regulate its own chosen body temp by moving to a warmer or cooler place).
Humidity: Jungles are fairly hardy as far as humidity goes so fair well with a moderate humidity and maybe a light misting around pre shed if needed.
Lighting: At present there is no scientific research to show that Uv lighting benefits these snakes, therefore it is not recommended. Bright lights may stress your snake, if you wish to observe them at night then a red light is suggested(with a guard)
Feeding In captivity: Coastal’s usually feed readily on defrost rodents of appropriate size. Hatchlings can usually be started off on fluffs rather than pinkies and increase the size off the food items as required. Generally they should be fed prey items slightly thicker then the thickest part of their body (enough to leave a slightly visible lump after eating). Hatchlings should be fed every 5-7 days, juveniles and sub adults should be fed every 7-10 days and adults every 10-14 days.
Temperament: Carpet pythons can be highly strung so you may get bitten, but they can calm down over time with patient and careful handling.
Suitability as a pet: Not recommended for beginners or children as they can be snappy.
Things to consider:
Who will look after your new pet if you are away?
Can you get food easily from your local pet shop?
Can you deal with feeding whole frozen and defrosted rodents to your pet?
Are you prepared to take on an animal that could be with you in ten years time?
Is the rest of the family happy to live with a snake?
Salmonella: Like all living things reptiles can carry the naturally occurring bacteria Salmonella, which can be acquired by ingestion (via the mouth). Good hygiene is therefore very important when keeping any animal. Remember, you are just as likely to acquire Salmonella from raw chicken, meat, a stale cream cake or a dog so don't automatically assume that your reptile is the only suspect! Always wash your hands after handling ALL animals.
We gratefully acknowledge the assistance of Angi Nelson, Editor of Reptile Care Magazine in the preparation of this guide.
Adult size: 5ft – 7ft
Longevity: 20 – 30 years
Housing: Enclosure size will obviously depend on the size of the animal, hatchlings are best maintained in small hatchling tubs or faunariums at first increasing the size of the enclosure as the animal grows. Eventually when the snake reaches adult size of around 5-7 feet, it will need an enclosure around 3ftx2ftx2ft as a minimum. Carpet Pythons love to climb so if you can provide a taller enclosure then by all means do so. When deciding on the type of enclosure then its worth considering several things, the main one usually being durability, along with cost and safety in mind. In this day and age there are many enclosures available made from wood, glass, and plastic and fibre glass. All types of enclosure have their pros and cons, but you would always advise going for the best quality housing you can afford and not simply buying something you will need to replace in a year or so.
Vivarium furnishings: Tank decorations are another thing of which there is a huge variety to choose from. Remember that the more décor you use the more you will have to clean and disinfect on a regular basis. However there are two things which must be inside the vivarium, these are a sufficient hide/hides and a water bowl. Snakes are generally insecure animals which need confined space in order to feel secure (and thrive) so hides must always be provided. A water bowl large enough for the snake to completely submerge itself and with fresh water should be available at all times. Branches should also be provided for carpet pythons as they are a semi- arboreal species and love to climb. They must be fixed in place and strong enough to take the snakes weight (usually around the same thickness as the snake at mid body.
Substrate for reptiles is probably one of the most debateable topics ever. There are many different types to choose from but the most suitable for carpet pythons are orchid bark or newspaper.
Temperature and heating: Like housing, heating can also be achieved in a number of ways from ceramics, incandescent spot lights, heat mats and heat plates, all have their pros and cons. The type of heating you may use may depend on the type of housing you have decided to use as some may be better suited than others. However Regardless of the type of heating all heat sources should be adequately guarded and run on the appropriate thermostat (this is not an optional extra!)
Within the enclosure a background temp of 78f is adequate but should never be allowed to fall below 75f. At the warm end a temp of around 85-88f should be provided in order to allow the snake to thermo regulate (regulate its own chosen body temp by moving to a warmer or cooler place).
Humidity: Jungles are fairly hardy as far as humidity goes so fair well with a moderate humidity and maybe a light misting around pre shed if needed.
Lighting: At present there is no scientific research to show that Uv lighting benefits these snakes, therefore it is not recommended. Bright lights may stress your snake, if you wish to observe them at night then a red light is suggested(with a guard)
Feeding In captivity: Coastal’s usually feed readily on defrost rodents of appropriate size. Hatchlings can usually be started off on fluffs rather than pinkies and increase the size off the food items as required. Generally they should be fed prey items slightly thicker then the thickest part of their body (enough to leave a slightly visible lump after eating). Hatchlings should be fed every 5-7 days, juveniles and sub adults should be fed every 7-10 days and adults every 10-14 days.
Temperament: Carpet pythons can be highly strung so you may get bitten, but they can calm down over time with patient and careful handling.
Suitability as a pet: Not recommended for beginners or children as they can be snappy.
Things to consider:
Who will look after your new pet if you are away?
Can you get food easily from your local pet shop?
Can you deal with feeding whole frozen and defrosted rodents to your pet?
Are you prepared to take on an animal that could be with you in ten years time?
Is the rest of the family happy to live with a snake?
Salmonella: Like all living things reptiles can carry the naturally occurring bacteria Salmonella, which can be acquired by ingestion (via the mouth). Good hygiene is therefore very important when keeping any animal. Remember, you are just as likely to acquire Salmonella from raw chicken, meat, a stale cream cake or a dog so don't automatically assume that your reptile is the only suspect! Always wash your hands after handling ALL animals.
We gratefully acknowledge the assistance of Angi Nelson, Editor of Reptile Care Magazine in the preparation of this guide.
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Morelia spilota mcdowelli - Coastal Carpet Python
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