Testudo sp - Mediterranean Tortoises
Published by Steve on 2007/8/18 (990 reads)
Species under review are all of the Testudo group from very similar habitats around the European coastline bordering the Mediterranean. The group consists of the Greek Spur-thighed Tortoise Testudo graeca, Hermann’s Tortoise Testudo hermanni and the Marginated Tortoise Testudo marginata. All are regularly captive bred in the UK and other EU countries, numbers available are limited and the prices high. Currently there’s an EU prohibition on trade in wild-caught specimens of the above. The Russian tortoise Testudo horsfieldii needs the same care as the above.
Size: 23cm (9 inches)
Longevity: capable of reaching 100 years or more.
Housing: Very young tortoises should be started in indoor vivariums and only placed in outside pens on warm dry days, but beware of predatory birds & animals. Older tortoises can go in to purpose built ‘ outdoor runs from late spring through to early autumn. Runs must include some cover as a retreat from cold, wet weather & hot sunshine. Place runs to avoid areas that may of been treated with weed killers etc. Adults & sub adults can roam free but take great care to ensure the garden is totally escape proof, remember tortoises are both good diggers and climbers. Free range tortoises require a waterproof hut or hutch with easy access & filled with good quality hay or straw as cover, protection from bad weather and a night retreat. Always be mindful of foxes and rats in the garden, both can injure & kill tortoises. Once outside temperatures drop below 20°C (68°F) move tortoises to an inside vivarium or tortoise table where more suitable temperatures and basking facilities can be provided.
Substrate: A dry substrate as recommended by your supplier should be used in vivariums.
Vivarium furnishings: Hides should be provided at both ends of vivariums, other décor is optional.
Heating: Vivarium temperatures can range from a hot spot of 95°F (35°C)provided by a spot lamp at one end, down to 68-80°F (20-26°C) at the other end all controlled by a suitable thermostat.
Lighting: A full spectrum 8% uvb tube can be made available when housed indoors.
Feeding: Free range tortoises will feed on dandelions and clover etc, but supplementary food must be given this can include: broccoli, courgette, bean sprouts, cabbage/spring greens, kale, coriander, basil, watercress, rocket, sorrel, parsley, runner beans, wild plantains, groundsel, dandelions, sedum leaves, nasturtium, apple, grapes, melon, tomato, cucumber, raspberries & strawberries. Food may be dusted with calcium/multivitamin/mineral powder for reptiles, As per manufacturers directions.
Water: An easily accessible shallow dish of clean water must be available at all times.
Hibernation: Not all species of tortoise have the biological capacity to hibernate, the Mediterranean species under discussion here all benefit from short periods of dormancy during the worst of our British winter. Though they’re not really built for extended periods of hibernation so for best results dormancy should be kept at around 6 to 10 weeks. Unaided hibernation is not recommended. Some people will tell you the tortoise they’ve had for years finds a place in the garden, digs down and reappears every spring. Sadly for every tortoise that emerges healthily in the spring, there’s a thousand empty shells in gardens up and down the country that testify that this system does not work. Tortoises do die each year because of undigested food in their intestines. Wild tortoises gradually reduce their food intake as autumn approaches, but it takes 4 to 6 weeks for the last meal to pass completely through their gut. You must wait 4 to 6 weeks from the last meal before placing your tortoise inside a small cardboard box. Allow for a few inches of insulation material all around. Shredded paper is ideal but straw must be avoided as it harbours mould spores. Next place the box inside a larger wooden or strong cardboard box. Line this box with shredded paper or polystyrene chips. This system allows a hibernating tortoise movement, without the risk of moving to the box edge, where it could freeze. The hibernating tortoise (in its box) needs placing in a cool frost free area away from any risk of wild rodents. The maximum temperature should be 10 °C (50 °F) and minimum 3°C (37.4°F). Too hot and your tortoise will use up body reserves too quickly and die, too cold, risks blindness and brain damage. The ideal being around 5°C (41 °F). Check temperatures regularly with a maximum-minimum thermometer. Tortoises are only dormant while temperatures are below 10 °C (50 °F). Once above 10°C (50°F) they’re metabolism begins to reactivate ready for waking. Once awake remove it from its box and sit it in a shallow warm water bath. This should stimulate drinking and help raise body temperature, it is also a good idea to clean its eyes and mouth at this point. It should then be placed in it’s vivarium to warm up before being offered its first meal.
Temperament: They’re rarely aggressive preferring to retreat into their shell when threatened.
Suitability as pet: With good care, They are hardy & long lived. Many tortoises even outlive their owners.
Things to consider:
Who will look after your new pet if you are away?
Are you prepared to take on an animal that could
be with you in seventy years’ time?
Is the rest of the family happy to live with your chosen pet?
Salmonella: Like all living things reptiles can carry the naturally occurring bacteria Salmonella, which can be acquired by ingestion (via the mouth). Good hygiene is therefore very important when keeping any animal. Remember, you are just as likely to acquire Salmonella from raw chicken meat, a stale cream cake or a dog so don't automatically assume that your reptile is the only suspect! Always wash your hands after handling ALL animals.
Many excellent books on tortoise keeping are available, you should buy one or more to read before buying your pet. You should also consider joining your local reptile society who will be happy to offer help and advice. For further information check out the following web sites:
FBH: www.f-b-h.co.uk
Proteus Reptile Trust: www.proteus.uk.net
We gratefully acknowledge the assistance of Proteus Reptile Trust in the preparation of this guide.
Size: 23cm (9 inches)
Longevity: capable of reaching 100 years or more.
Housing: Very young tortoises should be started in indoor vivariums and only placed in outside pens on warm dry days, but beware of predatory birds & animals. Older tortoises can go in to purpose built ‘ outdoor runs from late spring through to early autumn. Runs must include some cover as a retreat from cold, wet weather & hot sunshine. Place runs to avoid areas that may of been treated with weed killers etc. Adults & sub adults can roam free but take great care to ensure the garden is totally escape proof, remember tortoises are both good diggers and climbers. Free range tortoises require a waterproof hut or hutch with easy access & filled with good quality hay or straw as cover, protection from bad weather and a night retreat. Always be mindful of foxes and rats in the garden, both can injure & kill tortoises. Once outside temperatures drop below 20°C (68°F) move tortoises to an inside vivarium or tortoise table where more suitable temperatures and basking facilities can be provided.
Substrate: A dry substrate as recommended by your supplier should be used in vivariums.
Vivarium furnishings: Hides should be provided at both ends of vivariums, other décor is optional.
Heating: Vivarium temperatures can range from a hot spot of 95°F (35°C)provided by a spot lamp at one end, down to 68-80°F (20-26°C) at the other end all controlled by a suitable thermostat.
Lighting: A full spectrum 8% uvb tube can be made available when housed indoors.
Feeding: Free range tortoises will feed on dandelions and clover etc, but supplementary food must be given this can include: broccoli, courgette, bean sprouts, cabbage/spring greens, kale, coriander, basil, watercress, rocket, sorrel, parsley, runner beans, wild plantains, groundsel, dandelions, sedum leaves, nasturtium, apple, grapes, melon, tomato, cucumber, raspberries & strawberries. Food may be dusted with calcium/multivitamin/mineral powder for reptiles, As per manufacturers directions.
Water: An easily accessible shallow dish of clean water must be available at all times.
Hibernation: Not all species of tortoise have the biological capacity to hibernate, the Mediterranean species under discussion here all benefit from short periods of dormancy during the worst of our British winter. Though they’re not really built for extended periods of hibernation so for best results dormancy should be kept at around 6 to 10 weeks. Unaided hibernation is not recommended. Some people will tell you the tortoise they’ve had for years finds a place in the garden, digs down and reappears every spring. Sadly for every tortoise that emerges healthily in the spring, there’s a thousand empty shells in gardens up and down the country that testify that this system does not work. Tortoises do die each year because of undigested food in their intestines. Wild tortoises gradually reduce their food intake as autumn approaches, but it takes 4 to 6 weeks for the last meal to pass completely through their gut. You must wait 4 to 6 weeks from the last meal before placing your tortoise inside a small cardboard box. Allow for a few inches of insulation material all around. Shredded paper is ideal but straw must be avoided as it harbours mould spores. Next place the box inside a larger wooden or strong cardboard box. Line this box with shredded paper or polystyrene chips. This system allows a hibernating tortoise movement, without the risk of moving to the box edge, where it could freeze. The hibernating tortoise (in its box) needs placing in a cool frost free area away from any risk of wild rodents. The maximum temperature should be 10 °C (50 °F) and minimum 3°C (37.4°F). Too hot and your tortoise will use up body reserves too quickly and die, too cold, risks blindness and brain damage. The ideal being around 5°C (41 °F). Check temperatures regularly with a maximum-minimum thermometer. Tortoises are only dormant while temperatures are below 10 °C (50 °F). Once above 10°C (50°F) they’re metabolism begins to reactivate ready for waking. Once awake remove it from its box and sit it in a shallow warm water bath. This should stimulate drinking and help raise body temperature, it is also a good idea to clean its eyes and mouth at this point. It should then be placed in it’s vivarium to warm up before being offered its first meal.
Temperament: They’re rarely aggressive preferring to retreat into their shell when threatened.
Suitability as pet: With good care, They are hardy & long lived. Many tortoises even outlive their owners.
Things to consider:
Who will look after your new pet if you are away?
Are you prepared to take on an animal that could
be with you in seventy years’ time?
Is the rest of the family happy to live with your chosen pet?
Salmonella: Like all living things reptiles can carry the naturally occurring bacteria Salmonella, which can be acquired by ingestion (via the mouth). Good hygiene is therefore very important when keeping any animal. Remember, you are just as likely to acquire Salmonella from raw chicken meat, a stale cream cake or a dog so don't automatically assume that your reptile is the only suspect! Always wash your hands after handling ALL animals.
Many excellent books on tortoise keeping are available, you should buy one or more to read before buying your pet. You should also consider joining your local reptile society who will be happy to offer help and advice. For further information check out the following web sites:
FBH: www.f-b-h.co.uk
Proteus Reptile Trust: www.proteus.uk.net
We gratefully acknowledge the assistance of Proteus Reptile Trust in the preparation of this guide.
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