Euprepiophis mandarinus - The Mandarin rat snake
Published by Steve on 2007/8/16 (1556 reads)
Euprepiophis mandarinus formerly Elaphe mandarina.
Once a very rare captive this medium sized snake is undeniably one of the world`s most beautiful Rat snakes. They are now becoming commoner among specialist hobbyists and captive breeding programs are increasing. Wild-caught snakes can be difficult to maintain in captivity, probably due to heavy parasite loads and the poor condition of animals imported from China. They are very easily stressed and very susceptible to disease when stressed, all of which makes them more suited to the specialist keeper. Captive bred specimens are gradually becoming more available and It is recommended that hobbyists attempt to find captive bred stock. These offer a much better proposition for captive maintenance being calmer, hardier and relatively more easy to take care of.
Size: 1 to 2 metres (40'’ to 78'’) Males tend to be the larger.
Longevity: 10 to 15 years
Housing: Their need for high humidity means vivariums should be made of glass or plastic to avoid rotting. Adults require an escape proof cage with a minimum size of 90cms x 40cms x 40cms (36” x 15” x 15”), containing a deep substrate to allow for burrowing and hiding. Cages with excessive ventilation should be avoided. Hatchlings are sensitive to dehydration and do best in small plastic vivariums. Half filled with damp substrate for burrowing etc.
Substrate: A 5 - 8cm (2-3 inch) deep layer of substrate is required to provide for their tunnelling habits and to help them feel secure. Aspen has the advantage of holding the shape of their tunnels but others are also suitable. Flat paper is unsuitable and is best avoided.
Vivarium furnishings: Medium sized branches and/or cork bark should be provided for both juvenile and adult animals to aid with shedding. A choice of hide boxes should be provided in the warm and cool ends of the cage allowing the animal a choice. As well as the dry hides this species also requires a moist hide box filled with moist sphagnum moss.
Heating: Requiring cooler temperatures compared to most other species, offer daytime temperatures in the region of 24 to 30C (75 to 85F) dropping to a night time temperature range of 20 to 27C (70 to 80F)
Lighting: No special lighting is required for this species.
Water: A medium sized bowl of clean drinking water should always be available.
Diet and Feeding: Most captive bred animals happily accept a diet of mice throughout their lives starting as hatchlings on newborn ‘pinkie’ mice, eating one every five to seven days. Meal size should be increased as the snake grows. Some adults maintain a preference for smaller food items than expected. These will prefer feeding on several crawler or hopper mice rather than a single larger mouse. Some stubborn hatchlings require a pinkie scented with lizard smell (House Geckos are best) before they will eat. Some will totally refuse anything but a lizard. A few lizards on they usually begin to feed on ‘scented’ pinkies then plain ones. Be patient, hatchlings can feel insecure placed in a large cage. One trick that can induce a feed is to leave a small shallow dish containing a pinkie buried in the substrate overnight with a folded paper towel placed over it. Hatchlings push their head under the paper during nocturnal forays and discover the pinky. Be aware, some wild caught animals totally refuse defrosted mice and insist on either fresh killed mice or even live mice.
Temperament: These animals are best described as relatively non-aggressive, rarely biting. Younger snakes can be a bit highly-strung but older animals generally are much calmer. This is however an easily stressed species and handling particularly of wild caught specimens and very young hatchlings should be kept to an absolute minimum.
Suitability as a pet: As discussed above this species is easily stressed and prone to disease when stressed, they can also be difficult feeders and wild caught specimens have gained a reputation of being difficult to maintain in captivity. Until captive breeding programmes begin to produce calmer, easily maintained specimens, this species really is more for the experienced keeper than the beginner or novice.
Things to consider:
Who will look after your new pet if you are away?
Can you get food easily from your local pet shop?
Can you deal with feeding defrosted or even live rodents to your pet?
Are you prepared to take on an animal that could be with you in many years’ time?
Is the rest of the family happy to live with your chosen pet?
Salmonella: Like all living things reptiles can carry the naturally occurring bacteria Salmonella, which can be acquired by ingestion (via the mouth). Good hygiene is therefore very important when keeping any animal. Remember, you are just as likely to acquire Salmonella from raw chicken meat, a stale cream cake or a dog so don't automatically assume that your reptile is the only suspect! Always wash your hands after handling ALL animals.
A few excellent books are available on keeping Mandarin rat snakes and more information is gradually appearing on the world wide web. You should check the web and purchase one or more of the books to read before you buy your snake. You should also consider joining your local reptile society who will be happy to offer help and advice.
For further information check out the following web sites:
FBH: www.f-b-h.co.uk
Proteus Reptile Trust: www.proteus.uk.net
We gratefully acknowledge the assistance of Proteus Reptile Trust in the preparation of this guide.
Once a very rare captive this medium sized snake is undeniably one of the world`s most beautiful Rat snakes. They are now becoming commoner among specialist hobbyists and captive breeding programs are increasing. Wild-caught snakes can be difficult to maintain in captivity, probably due to heavy parasite loads and the poor condition of animals imported from China. They are very easily stressed and very susceptible to disease when stressed, all of which makes them more suited to the specialist keeper. Captive bred specimens are gradually becoming more available and It is recommended that hobbyists attempt to find captive bred stock. These offer a much better proposition for captive maintenance being calmer, hardier and relatively more easy to take care of.
Size: 1 to 2 metres (40'’ to 78'’) Males tend to be the larger.
Longevity: 10 to 15 years
Housing: Their need for high humidity means vivariums should be made of glass or plastic to avoid rotting. Adults require an escape proof cage with a minimum size of 90cms x 40cms x 40cms (36” x 15” x 15”), containing a deep substrate to allow for burrowing and hiding. Cages with excessive ventilation should be avoided. Hatchlings are sensitive to dehydration and do best in small plastic vivariums. Half filled with damp substrate for burrowing etc.
Substrate: A 5 - 8cm (2-3 inch) deep layer of substrate is required to provide for their tunnelling habits and to help them feel secure. Aspen has the advantage of holding the shape of their tunnels but others are also suitable. Flat paper is unsuitable and is best avoided.
Vivarium furnishings: Medium sized branches and/or cork bark should be provided for both juvenile and adult animals to aid with shedding. A choice of hide boxes should be provided in the warm and cool ends of the cage allowing the animal a choice. As well as the dry hides this species also requires a moist hide box filled with moist sphagnum moss.
Heating: Requiring cooler temperatures compared to most other species, offer daytime temperatures in the region of 24 to 30C (75 to 85F) dropping to a night time temperature range of 20 to 27C (70 to 80F)
Lighting: No special lighting is required for this species.
Water: A medium sized bowl of clean drinking water should always be available.
Diet and Feeding: Most captive bred animals happily accept a diet of mice throughout their lives starting as hatchlings on newborn ‘pinkie’ mice, eating one every five to seven days. Meal size should be increased as the snake grows. Some adults maintain a preference for smaller food items than expected. These will prefer feeding on several crawler or hopper mice rather than a single larger mouse. Some stubborn hatchlings require a pinkie scented with lizard smell (House Geckos are best) before they will eat. Some will totally refuse anything but a lizard. A few lizards on they usually begin to feed on ‘scented’ pinkies then plain ones. Be patient, hatchlings can feel insecure placed in a large cage. One trick that can induce a feed is to leave a small shallow dish containing a pinkie buried in the substrate overnight with a folded paper towel placed over it. Hatchlings push their head under the paper during nocturnal forays and discover the pinky. Be aware, some wild caught animals totally refuse defrosted mice and insist on either fresh killed mice or even live mice.
Temperament: These animals are best described as relatively non-aggressive, rarely biting. Younger snakes can be a bit highly-strung but older animals generally are much calmer. This is however an easily stressed species and handling particularly of wild caught specimens and very young hatchlings should be kept to an absolute minimum.
Suitability as a pet: As discussed above this species is easily stressed and prone to disease when stressed, they can also be difficult feeders and wild caught specimens have gained a reputation of being difficult to maintain in captivity. Until captive breeding programmes begin to produce calmer, easily maintained specimens, this species really is more for the experienced keeper than the beginner or novice.
Things to consider:
Who will look after your new pet if you are away?
Can you get food easily from your local pet shop?
Can you deal with feeding defrosted or even live rodents to your pet?
Are you prepared to take on an animal that could be with you in many years’ time?
Is the rest of the family happy to live with your chosen pet?
Salmonella: Like all living things reptiles can carry the naturally occurring bacteria Salmonella, which can be acquired by ingestion (via the mouth). Good hygiene is therefore very important when keeping any animal. Remember, you are just as likely to acquire Salmonella from raw chicken meat, a stale cream cake or a dog so don't automatically assume that your reptile is the only suspect! Always wash your hands after handling ALL animals.
A few excellent books are available on keeping Mandarin rat snakes and more information is gradually appearing on the world wide web. You should check the web and purchase one or more of the books to read before you buy your snake. You should also consider joining your local reptile society who will be happy to offer help and advice.
For further information check out the following web sites:
FBH: www.f-b-h.co.uk
Proteus Reptile Trust: www.proteus.uk.net
We gratefully acknowledge the assistance of Proteus Reptile Trust in the preparation of this guide.
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