Uromastyx sp - Spiny-Tailed Lizards of North Africa and Asia
Published by Steve on 2007/8/16 (928 reads)
Uromastyx are frequently imported large desert lizards from North Africa and the Middle East. Some times called Dabs or Mastigures, the 16 or so species and sub species are robust, hardy, and in some cases very colourful. Small numbers are regularly bred in captivity.
Size: 36 cms to 76 cms (14 to 30 inches)
Longevity: 8 to 15 years depending on species.
Housing: These are quite large lizards which need large cages. A well ventilated vivarium measuring 120cm (48 inches) in length by 60cm (24 inches) deep by 45cm (18 inches) high (more height may be required depending on your chosen UV light set up) should be regarded as a minimum size for a pair or trio of adults. A larger floor area even up to 240 cm x 61cm (8’x 2’) can be provided for the larger species. The natural habitat of the different species does vary slightly but generally they are all desert species preferring very dry well ventilated conditions.
Substrate: A substrate of fine granulated limestone or calcium rich sand is ideal. The incidental ingestion of the sand particles or dust provides a useful extra dietary source of calcium.
Vivarium furnishings: Cover can be provided by slabs of cork bark, which is safer to use than rocks because of its light weight, and is durable and readily available.
Heating: These are desert lizards which need an intense, well lit hot spot in the day, and some temperature variation. A heat source that produces bright light and is capable of giving a daytime hot spot of 43 to 49C (110 to 120F) should be placed at one end of the cage, although night time temperatures may drop to 22C (70F). The temperature away from the hot spot should be about 27C (80F). These lizards naturally hibernate in the wild and may require a winter cool period of around 15 to 18 Centigrade (60 to 65 Fahrenheit) to mimic this natural process. Heat sources must be guarded so as to ensure the lizard is not burnt. For safety all heat sources should be controlled by a suitable reliable thermostat designed for use in vivariums.
Lighting: As well as needing good bright lighting, Uromastyx need ultraviolet light (UVA for normal vision and activity levels and UVB for normal calcium metabolism), which must be supplied by specialist reptile UV lamps or tubes. High-UVB (5-10% UVB) fluorescent tubes, ideally fitted with reflectors, should be placed above the basking spot to supplement the lighting, and replaced at least every year. In larger, well ventilated enclosures, new mercury vapour UVB lamps may be suitable as combined heat and light sources; some brands produce more UV light than tubes, but cannot be thermostatically controlled.
Diet and Feeding: Uromastyx are omnivorous. In captivity their food can consist of a mixture of live insects, a range of greens and fruits, and dry food in the form of seeds and dried, halved peas and lentils. While they will take crickets and mealworms, most Uromastyx are particularly fond of desert locust hoppers (Schistocerca gregaria). This insect is found throughout the range of all Uromastyx, and in nature is probably often their principal insect prey. Juvenile Uromastyx in particular will eat large quantities of locust hoppers. A similar range of green foods can be offered as would be to tortoises. A good list to choose from is: broccoli, courgettes, bean sprouts, cabbage/spring greens, kale, coriander, basil, watercress, rocket, sorrel, parsley, runner beans, wild plantains, groundsel, dandelions, sedum leaves, nasturtiums, apple, grapes, melon, tomato, cucumber, raspberries, strawberries. The food should be dusted with a good multivitamin/mineral powder designed for reptiles. Uromastx also like to eat dried seeds such as canary or parakeet seed, split peas and lentils. It is generally accepted that uromastyx do not require water bowls but if this concerns you, then offer water twice a week.
Temperament: Variable from species to species and specimen to specimen but non are aggressive towards their keeper.
Suitability as pet: Not recommended for novices but an interesting and attractive lizard for the more experienced keeper.
Things to consider:
Who will look after your new pet if you are away?
Can you get food easily from your local pet shop?
Can you deal with feeding live bugs /defrosted frozen rodents to your pet?
Are you prepared to take on an animal that could be with you in several years’ time?
Is the rest of the family happy to live with your chosen pet?
Salmonella: Like all living things reptiles can carry the naturally occurring bacteria Salmonella, which can be acquired by ingestion (via the mouth). Good hygiene is therefore very important when keeping any animal. Remember, you are just as likely to acquire Salmonella from raw chicken meat, a stale cream cake or a dog so don't automatically assume that your reptile is the only suspect! Always wash your hands after handling ALL animals.
Some excellent books are available on the keeping of Uromastyx and more information is gradually appearing on the world wide web. You should check the web and purchase one or more of the books to read before you buy your lizard.
You should also consider joining your local reptile society who will be happy to offer help and advice.
For further information check out the following web sites:
FBH: www.f-b-h.co.uk
Proteus Reptile Trust: www.proteus.uk.net
We gratefully acknowledge the assistance of Proteus Reptile Trust in the preparation of this guide.
Size: 36 cms to 76 cms (14 to 30 inches)
Longevity: 8 to 15 years depending on species.
Housing: These are quite large lizards which need large cages. A well ventilated vivarium measuring 120cm (48 inches) in length by 60cm (24 inches) deep by 45cm (18 inches) high (more height may be required depending on your chosen UV light set up) should be regarded as a minimum size for a pair or trio of adults. A larger floor area even up to 240 cm x 61cm (8’x 2’) can be provided for the larger species. The natural habitat of the different species does vary slightly but generally they are all desert species preferring very dry well ventilated conditions.
Substrate: A substrate of fine granulated limestone or calcium rich sand is ideal. The incidental ingestion of the sand particles or dust provides a useful extra dietary source of calcium.
Vivarium furnishings: Cover can be provided by slabs of cork bark, which is safer to use than rocks because of its light weight, and is durable and readily available.
Heating: These are desert lizards which need an intense, well lit hot spot in the day, and some temperature variation. A heat source that produces bright light and is capable of giving a daytime hot spot of 43 to 49C (110 to 120F) should be placed at one end of the cage, although night time temperatures may drop to 22C (70F). The temperature away from the hot spot should be about 27C (80F). These lizards naturally hibernate in the wild and may require a winter cool period of around 15 to 18 Centigrade (60 to 65 Fahrenheit) to mimic this natural process. Heat sources must be guarded so as to ensure the lizard is not burnt. For safety all heat sources should be controlled by a suitable reliable thermostat designed for use in vivariums.
Lighting: As well as needing good bright lighting, Uromastyx need ultraviolet light (UVA for normal vision and activity levels and UVB for normal calcium metabolism), which must be supplied by specialist reptile UV lamps or tubes. High-UVB (5-10% UVB) fluorescent tubes, ideally fitted with reflectors, should be placed above the basking spot to supplement the lighting, and replaced at least every year. In larger, well ventilated enclosures, new mercury vapour UVB lamps may be suitable as combined heat and light sources; some brands produce more UV light than tubes, but cannot be thermostatically controlled.
Diet and Feeding: Uromastyx are omnivorous. In captivity their food can consist of a mixture of live insects, a range of greens and fruits, and dry food in the form of seeds and dried, halved peas and lentils. While they will take crickets and mealworms, most Uromastyx are particularly fond of desert locust hoppers (Schistocerca gregaria). This insect is found throughout the range of all Uromastyx, and in nature is probably often their principal insect prey. Juvenile Uromastyx in particular will eat large quantities of locust hoppers. A similar range of green foods can be offered as would be to tortoises. A good list to choose from is: broccoli, courgettes, bean sprouts, cabbage/spring greens, kale, coriander, basil, watercress, rocket, sorrel, parsley, runner beans, wild plantains, groundsel, dandelions, sedum leaves, nasturtiums, apple, grapes, melon, tomato, cucumber, raspberries, strawberries. The food should be dusted with a good multivitamin/mineral powder designed for reptiles. Uromastx also like to eat dried seeds such as canary or parakeet seed, split peas and lentils. It is generally accepted that uromastyx do not require water bowls but if this concerns you, then offer water twice a week.
Temperament: Variable from species to species and specimen to specimen but non are aggressive towards their keeper.
Suitability as pet: Not recommended for novices but an interesting and attractive lizard for the more experienced keeper.
Things to consider:
Who will look after your new pet if you are away?
Can you get food easily from your local pet shop?
Can you deal with feeding live bugs /defrosted frozen rodents to your pet?
Are you prepared to take on an animal that could be with you in several years’ time?
Is the rest of the family happy to live with your chosen pet?
Salmonella: Like all living things reptiles can carry the naturally occurring bacteria Salmonella, which can be acquired by ingestion (via the mouth). Good hygiene is therefore very important when keeping any animal. Remember, you are just as likely to acquire Salmonella from raw chicken meat, a stale cream cake or a dog so don't automatically assume that your reptile is the only suspect! Always wash your hands after handling ALL animals.
Some excellent books are available on the keeping of Uromastyx and more information is gradually appearing on the world wide web. You should check the web and purchase one or more of the books to read before you buy your lizard.
You should also consider joining your local reptile society who will be happy to offer help and advice.
For further information check out the following web sites:
FBH: www.f-b-h.co.uk
Proteus Reptile Trust: www.proteus.uk.net
We gratefully acknowledge the assistance of Proteus Reptile Trust in the preparation of this guide.
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