Crotaphytus collaris - The Collared Lizard
Published by Steve on 2007/8/15 (447 reads)
The Collared Lizard Crotaphytus collaris and related species are attractive rock-dwelling lizards from arid and semi-arid regions of North America. Captive bred specimens are occasionally available but more frequently specimens are imported as wild-caught.
Adult size 35 cm (14 inches).
Longevity 10 years or more.
Housing: A well ventilated vivarium measuring 90cm (36 inches) in length by 38cm (15 inches) deep by 38cm (15 inches) high (more height may be required depending on your chosen UV light set up) is sufficient for a pair of adult lizards. Trios (two females and one male only as two males will fight) may live together in larger enclosures. Small hatchlings may be kept in a smaller vivarium but avoid over crowding as they grow.
Substrate: The preferred substrate is calcium based sand (which may provide a source of dietary calcium) but Kitchen paper towel, reptile carpet and even newspaper can all make suitable substrates along with a host of purpose made, substrates currently available. Always check when buying substrate that it is suitable for use with Collared lizards. Remove all droppings and clean vivariums on a regular basis to prevent disease.
Vivarium furnishings: Collared lizards love to climb, their natural habitat being large rock piles. Because of the impractical weight of rocks, large pieces of log or cork bark are more suitable furnishings for cages, and provide both basking sites and cover, which is essential to prevent stress and allow your pet a safe haven from the outside world.
Heating: A good background temperature is about 27ºC (80ºF), though it can safely drop to the 15 to 20ºC (60 to 70ºF) at night. Being mostly desert lizards, they are adapted to marked drops in night temperature. A hot spot of 38-43ºC (100-110ºF) in one part of the vivarium, during the day, is essential. This can be provided by a spot lamp which will provide the bright lighting the lizards require. Wire mesh guards should be fitted to all heat sources in order to prevent thermal burns However, it must be remembered that escape from intense heat is always available : high temperatures should be confined to one part of the cage only! For safety all heat sources should be controlled by a reliable thermostat designed for use in vivariums. Different thermostats are made for each type of heat source. Actual
temperatures at the basking spot and the cooler end of the vivarium should be regularly checked.
Lighting: These lizards are adapted to high intensity sunlight and should be provided with at least a full spectrum 8% UV-emitting fluorescent lamp designed for desert lizards.
Diet and Feeding: These are highly predacious, voracious animals. Only lizards of similar size should be kept together. In captivity they can be given large crickets, locust hoppers, giant mealworms and cockroaches. A good basic rule is to use insects up to about half the head size of the animal being fed. Different foods should be offered in rotation, as lizards quickly tire of a monotonous diet. They can be fed three or four times a week. It is important that uneaten insects are removed from the cage. Lizards will lose the stimulus to feed in the presence of uneaten insects moving about the cage, and hungry, thirsty crickets will often chew and injure resting animals, sometimes severely. Food insects should be dusted with a standard vitamin/mineral powder designed for reptiles. Lizards have a high calcium requirement which must be supplied. Fresh water should be provide via a shallow bowl.
Temperament: A high percentage of these lizards will become fairly tame over a period of time, once they associate the keeper with feeding.
Suitability as pet: An attractive lizard that shows itself well in a vivarium but is not as tame as some of the more popular lizards.
Things to consider:
Who will look after your new pet if you are away?
Can you get food easily from your local pet shop?
Can you deal with feeding live bugs to your pet?
Can you handle the insects to feed your pet?
Are you prepared to take on an animal that could be with you in several years’ time?
Is the rest of the family happy to live with a lizard?
Salmonella: Like all living things reptiles can carry the naturally occurring bacteria Salmonella, which can be acquired by ingestion (via the mouth). Good hygiene is therefore very important when keeping any animal. Remember, you are just as likely to acquire Salmonella from raw chicken meat, a stale cream cake or a dog so don't automatically assume that your reptile is the only suspect!
Always wash your hands after handling ALL animals.
Adult size 35 cm (14 inches).
Longevity 10 years or more.
Housing: A well ventilated vivarium measuring 90cm (36 inches) in length by 38cm (15 inches) deep by 38cm (15 inches) high (more height may be required depending on your chosen UV light set up) is sufficient for a pair of adult lizards. Trios (two females and one male only as two males will fight) may live together in larger enclosures. Small hatchlings may be kept in a smaller vivarium but avoid over crowding as they grow.
Substrate: The preferred substrate is calcium based sand (which may provide a source of dietary calcium) but Kitchen paper towel, reptile carpet and even newspaper can all make suitable substrates along with a host of purpose made, substrates currently available. Always check when buying substrate that it is suitable for use with Collared lizards. Remove all droppings and clean vivariums on a regular basis to prevent disease.
Vivarium furnishings: Collared lizards love to climb, their natural habitat being large rock piles. Because of the impractical weight of rocks, large pieces of log or cork bark are more suitable furnishings for cages, and provide both basking sites and cover, which is essential to prevent stress and allow your pet a safe haven from the outside world.
Heating: A good background temperature is about 27ºC (80ºF), though it can safely drop to the 15 to 20ºC (60 to 70ºF) at night. Being mostly desert lizards, they are adapted to marked drops in night temperature. A hot spot of 38-43ºC (100-110ºF) in one part of the vivarium, during the day, is essential. This can be provided by a spot lamp which will provide the bright lighting the lizards require. Wire mesh guards should be fitted to all heat sources in order to prevent thermal burns However, it must be remembered that escape from intense heat is always available : high temperatures should be confined to one part of the cage only! For safety all heat sources should be controlled by a reliable thermostat designed for use in vivariums. Different thermostats are made for each type of heat source. Actual
temperatures at the basking spot and the cooler end of the vivarium should be regularly checked.
Lighting: These lizards are adapted to high intensity sunlight and should be provided with at least a full spectrum 8% UV-emitting fluorescent lamp designed for desert lizards.
Diet and Feeding: These are highly predacious, voracious animals. Only lizards of similar size should be kept together. In captivity they can be given large crickets, locust hoppers, giant mealworms and cockroaches. A good basic rule is to use insects up to about half the head size of the animal being fed. Different foods should be offered in rotation, as lizards quickly tire of a monotonous diet. They can be fed three or four times a week. It is important that uneaten insects are removed from the cage. Lizards will lose the stimulus to feed in the presence of uneaten insects moving about the cage, and hungry, thirsty crickets will often chew and injure resting animals, sometimes severely. Food insects should be dusted with a standard vitamin/mineral powder designed for reptiles. Lizards have a high calcium requirement which must be supplied. Fresh water should be provide via a shallow bowl.
Temperament: A high percentage of these lizards will become fairly tame over a period of time, once they associate the keeper with feeding.
Suitability as pet: An attractive lizard that shows itself well in a vivarium but is not as tame as some of the more popular lizards.
Things to consider:
Who will look after your new pet if you are away?
Can you get food easily from your local pet shop?
Can you deal with feeding live bugs to your pet?
Can you handle the insects to feed your pet?
Are you prepared to take on an animal that could be with you in several years’ time?
Is the rest of the family happy to live with a lizard?
Salmonella: Like all living things reptiles can carry the naturally occurring bacteria Salmonella, which can be acquired by ingestion (via the mouth). Good hygiene is therefore very important when keeping any animal. Remember, you are just as likely to acquire Salmonella from raw chicken meat, a stale cream cake or a dog so don't automatically assume that your reptile is the only suspect!
Always wash your hands after handling ALL animals.
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